Coffee production in Mexico is not only an economic activity, but a cultural legacy deeply rooted in the indigenous traditions of our country. Regions such as Puebla, Chiapas and Veracruz have stood out for their coffee production, where indigenous communities, including the Nahua and Totonac, play a fundamental role.
History of Coffee in Mexico
The introduction of coffee in Mexico dates back to the 18th century, when the first plantations began to be established in the Veracruz region. Over the years, coffee production expanded to other regions, with Chiapas and Puebla being the most representative in terms of quality and volume. Mexico has become one of the largest producers of organic coffee in the world, and its geographical and climatic situation favors the cultivation of various varieties. The history of coffee in Mexico is also a history of resistance and adaptation of communities that have made its cultivation an integral part of their cultural identity.
Historically, coffee has been an economic and social engine in Mexico. From the time of the colonizers to the agrarian revolution, coffee has been at the center of the struggles for land and the rights of farm workers. However, it is crucial to recognize that indigenous communities have been the true guardians of this tradition. Coffee stands out as a strategic crop in Mexico, involving more than 500 thousand producers distributed across 15 states and 480 municipalities.
According to the Federal Consumer Protection Agency (PROFECO), per capita coffee consumption in the country reaches 1,600 kilograms per year, showing that 85% of Mexicans enjoy between one and three cups a day; curiously, men are the ones who predominate in this habit, consuming an average of three cups compared to the two cups that women drink.
This panorama highlights not only the fondness for coffee in Mexican society, but also the exceptional quality produced in the country, determined by its topography, climate and the richness of its soils that facilitate the cultivation of world-renowned varieties and the work of the coffee grower as a planter, harvester and creator of the drink that awakens Mexico.
Coffee Plantations and Indigenous Communities
Indigenous communities, such as the Nahua and Totonac, have cultivated coffee for generations, each contributing their own knowledge and traditional techniques. Coffee cultivation is integrated into their worldview and sustainable agricultural practices, which consider the relationship between humans and nature. Coffee planting in Chiapas, for example, is done with techniques that respect ecological balance, combining coffee with fruit trees and shade, which not only results in more abundant harvests, but also preserves the biodiversity of the environment.
These communities have organized solidarity economies through cooperatives, which allows them to obtain better prices for their products and improve their living conditions. Through the production of specialty coffee, these communities have managed to position themselves in international markets, highlighting the quality of their coffee and the stories that surround it.
Coffee Varieties and Indigenous Tradition
In Mexico, various varieties of coffee are grown, the best known being Arabica and Robusta. However, it is Arabica coffee that predominates in Mexican production, especially in mountainous regions where conditions are ideal. Each region contributes unique characteristics to its coffee; Chiapas coffee, for example, is known for its acidity and fruity notes, while Puebla coffee stands out for its robust body and intense flavor.
The Sierra Norte region of Puebla, due to its topography, hydrography, altitude, climate and soil, has allowed the cultivation and production of varieties classified among the best in the world.
Mexican Association of Specialty Coffees and Cafeterias (AMCCE)
The indigenous coffee tradition is not only related to the cultivation, but also to the preparation process and rituals around coffee. For many communities, coffee is more than a drink; it is a symbol of hospitality and community. The ceremonies surrounding its consumption reflect a deep connection with the land and ancestors, making each cup of coffee a cultural experience.
In the Sierra Norte of Puebla, the humid semi-warm climate, with temperatures ranging between 18°C and 24°C, and abundant rainfall, create an environment conducive to the cultivation of “prima lavadoras” coffees, characterized by their pleasant flavor and aroma, with good acidity and body. This privileged environment is evident in Cuetzalan, a town that unfolds between cloud forests and coffee plantations, being a place where culture and nature intertwine. Founded by the Totonacs around 200 BC, Cuetzalan is a testament to the region’s rich indigenous heritage.
The indigenous Totonac and Nahua community of Cuetzalan preserves its cultural tradition through rituals such as “Los Voladores,” a dance that represents fertility and has been recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO since 2009. This town, 930 meters above sea level, delights with its cobblestone streets and white buildings that sway under the morning fog, where the aroma of coffee merges with the song of birds.
Just over fifteen minutes from Cuetzalan, Finca Cafetalera Reserva Azul offers a space designed to enjoy nature, with 11 hectares of cloud forest and organic coffee plantations. Its history dates back to the plantations started between 1860 and 1870 by Jesús Flores, who took advantage of the unbeatable conditions of the land. The wise practices of the Nahua culture integrated coffee cultivation into a polyculture system, where citrus fruits, bananas and spices are also found that benefit the community.
On this coffee farm, the coffee production process is enriched, maintaining harmony with nature, preserving artisanal practices in its production, processing and roasting to achieve a cup with flavor and aroma for demanding palates.
Reserva Azul.
The coffee plant, belonging to the Rubiaceae family, is mainly classified into two species: Arabica and Robusta. The former is more sensitive to pests and requires higher altitudes, while Robusta is more resistant and is grown in less demanding conditions. However, the main distinction between the two lies in their flavor: Arabica has an unmatched smoothness and aroma, in contrast to the intensity and bitterness of Robusta.
The Fernández family produces Arabica, Garnica and Caturra coffee grown at 1,000 meters above sea level. The process to obtain a cup of aromatic coffee at the Reserva Azul is meticulous: the harvest, carried out by hand, begins in March and ends in October, following a selection and treatment process to ensure the quality of the bean. From pulping to drying, each stage is crucial.
After being pulped and fermented, the coffee is carefully dried, where the flavors and aromas that characterize Mexican coffee are revealed. Once roasted, the bean is ground according to its use in different preparation methods, where coarse, medium and fine are adapted to each person’s preferences. Each type of bean has an optimal roasting time and type, whose variations alter the final flavor. The roasting of the different coffees must necessarily be done separately, following a different roasting process, since each coffee has its optimal roasting point. We can distinguish three different roasting methods:
• Light: with a delicate flavor.
• Medium: with a strong flavor.
• Full: eliminates acidity and confers a bitter taste.
In conclusion, coffee is not only a popular drink in Mexico, but it is a true reflection of the country’s cultural and productive wealth. From its cultivation in the lush mountains to its consumption in every home, coffee is a symbol of unity and tradition that continues to evolve in the heart of Mexican society.
Mexican tradition allows you to enjoy coffee prepared in clay or pewter pots, enriched with a touch of cinnamon.
The life of the coffee grower in Mexico is a testament to the resilience and cultural wealth of indigenous communities. Through the planting and production of coffee, the Nahua and Totonac people have preserved and transmitted their traditions, while facing the challenges of a constantly changing world. Coffee is not only an export product, but a means for sustainable development and the dignification of life in the countryside. It is essential to support and recognize the role of these communities in the world of coffee, ensuring that their cultural legacy and connection to the land continue to thrive for generations.
Reserva Azul
Calle Principal Cuitchat
Cuetzalan del Progreso, Puebla C.P. 73560
Telephone: +52 (233) 112 61 07
https://www.reservaazul.com/